Day 11 — Abu Simbel Was Worth the 3:45 A.M. Wakeup, But the Driver’s Phone Was Not

There are wakeup times that feel adventurous.There are wakeup times that feel unpleasant.And then there is 3:45 a.m., which feels less like morning and more like a clerical error.Our alarms…

Continue ReadingDay 11 — Abu Simbel Was Worth the 3:45 A.M. Wakeup, But the Driver’s Phone Was Not

Day 10 — Aswan Welcomed Us With Island Temples, Market Haggling, and a Man Who Remembered My Name

There is something disorienting about waking up on a sleeper train and realizing the day has already started without asking your permission.We were on our way to Aswan after a…

Continue ReadingDay 10 — Aswan Welcomed Us With Island Temples, Market Haggling, and a Man Who Remembered My Name

Day 5 — Sunrise in the Sahara, Dune Bashing, and the Hotel Pool Nobody Asked For

There are few things that will get me out of bed early on vacation.A flight, unfortunately.A buffet breakfast with good pastries, possibly.A sunrise over the Sahara Desert, absolutely.After our cloudy,…

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Day 4 — The Sahara Was Supposed to Give Us a Sunset. It Gave Us Camels and Rain Instead

There are many ways to prepare for an eight-hour drive through the Atlas Mountains.Sleep well.Pack snacks.Use the bathroom whenever possible.And never underestimate the emotional power of knowing that camels are…

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Day 2 — The Road to Fes Started With Romans, Couscous, and Children Being Volunteered for Things

There is something wonderfully dangerous about waking up on the second day of a trip and believing you have adjusted.You have not.Your body still thinks it belongs in another time…

Continue ReadingDay 2 — The Road to Fes Started With Romans, Couscous, and Children Being Volunteered for Things