Day 19 — Three Generations, Four Countries, and Every Transportation Method Except Submarine

There are trips you remember by the places.This one, I may remember by the vehicles.Over three weeks, across Morocco, Egypt, Jordan, and Rome, we moved by almost every form of…

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Day 18 — Rome in One Day by Scooter Was a Terrible Idea. Naturally, It Was Fantastic.

There are moments in family travel when a child suggests an idea so ridiculous that the responsible adult should immediately say no.This was one of those moments.Orin suggested that we…

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Day 17 — Rome Was Supposed to Be the Easy Stop. Then We Put Grandma on a Scooter.

There is a strange confidence that comes after surviving Morocco, Egypt, and Petra with three generations of family.You begin to think, “We’ve handled camels, sleeper trains, feluccas, donkey stairs, hot…

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Day 16 — Petra’s Back Door, a Donkey Named Zuzu, and the Scam We Walked Straight Into

There are travel decisions that feel clever when you make them.Entering Petra through the back door was one of those decisions.Petra is enormous, and the classic entrance through the Siq…

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Day 14 — Sixty Balloons, One Sunrise, and the Karnak Temple That Would Not Stop Being Huge

There are mornings when waking up at 4:30 a.m. feels like punishment.This morning felt like punishment with potential.We were in Luxor, and we had booked a sunrise hot air balloon…

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Day 13 — The Valley of the Kings, King Tut, and the Horse Cart That Took Us to the Wrong Market

There are places in Egypt where the ancient world feels far away.The Valley of the Kings is not one of them.It feels close.Not close in the comforting way, like an…

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Day 12 — The Nile Gave Us Blankets, a Singing Paddleboarder, and Crocodile Mummies

After several days of alarms that felt personally hostile, the morning in Aswan began with something gentler.We were still leaving.The bags were still packed.The schedule still existed.But instead of climbing…

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Day 11 — Abu Simbel Was Worth the 3:45 A.M. Wakeup, But the Driver’s Phone Was Not

There are wakeup times that feel adventurous.There are wakeup times that feel unpleasant.And then there is 3:45 a.m., which feels less like morning and more like a clerical error.Our alarms…

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Day 10 — Aswan Welcomed Us With Island Temples, Market Haggling, and a Man Who Remembered My Name

There is something disorienting about waking up on a sleeper train and realizing the day has already started without asking your permission.We were on our way to Aswan after a…

Continue ReadingDay 10 — Aswan Welcomed Us With Island Temples, Market Haggling, and a Man Who Remembered My Name