Caves, Culture, and Climbing Rocks: A Big Day in Rurutu

Location: Rurutu, Austral Islands
️ Voyage: Aranui 5 – Austral & Society Islands Expedition
** Day 3: November 3 – Full Day on Rurutu

Pro Tip: Wake Up Early, Even on Vacation

If you’re traveling with kids — or teens who pretend they aren’t morning people — let me just say: you’ll want to be ready early on a day like this.

I squeezed in a quick gym session on board — the Aranui does have a small gym — but let’s just say the dumbbells are more “historic artifact” than precision equipment. I ended up doing one-armed exercises with mismatched weights while trying not to wake up the rest of the ship. Not pretty, but it worked.

By 6:30, our whole crew — Kirsten, Teyauna (17), Zakary (13), and I — were grabbing breakfast before rushing to get ready for the day’s land excursion. Even though our group was supposed to disembark at 7:30, island time worked its magic, and we finally set foot on Rurutu around 8:30.

Backpacks loaded. Water bottles filled. Kids rested (well, not really). Adventure mode: ON.

A Welcome That Makes You Feel Like Royalty

Stepping off the barge, we were welcomed by locals with smiles, songs, and fresh flowers. While we didn’t get leis right away, we were soon shuttled to what seemed like the local city hall, where a full welcome party was waiting — complete with live music, warm greetings, and freshly made floral garlands that smelled better than anything you’ll find in a candle store.

Teyauna was enchanted. Zakary was focused on the snacks (same energy, different priorities). It was an authentic, heartfelt welcome — not a performance, but a celebration that included us in it.

From Sacred Caves to Sticky Taro

Our island tour took us from cultural landmarks to living traditions. First stop: Te Ana Yeo cave, nestled in Vitaria, where we were welcomed again with local songs and rhythms echoing off the stone.

Next, we visited the Arioi Marae — a sacred site surrounded by stories and quiet power. Our guides explained how these ceremonial grounds tied into ancient Polynesian customs. It gave us a history lesson (and gave Zakary the perfect excuse to pretend he was a warrior chief).

Then came one of our favorite stops: the Vaïavaï Taro Fields in Avera. Locals walked us through their taro paddies, showing how the muddy, green fields are not just about food — they’re about tradition, resilience, and passing skills from generation to generation.

We got to try some of the freshly prepared taro, mixed with banana, alongside samples of papaya, coconut, and the mysterious but delicious pamplemousse (Tahitian grapefruit, but with more magic).

Family Tip: Even if your kids claim to hate “weird food,” they’ll surprise you here. Zakary — actually said, “This is pretty good.” That’s saying a lot.

️ A Feast in Una’a, with a Soundtrack

For lunch, we were taken to the mayor’s home in Una’a, where long tables were set up under tents, and local dishes were lined up buffet style.

Taro, roasted meats, coconut sides, fish dishes — all home-cooked, and all incredible. Music played throughout, laughter bounced around, and you got the sense this wasn’t a tourist stop — this was a shared table.

While we were there, I also recorded a short podcast interview with one of the local hosts — just a few thoughts on the meaning of hospitality and the island’s deep-rooted traditions. Even in a quick conversation, you could feel the pride and sincerity.

The Monster’s Mouth: A Family Hike to Remember

After lunch, we split from the main group to do something a little more adventurous — the optional hike to Ana Taupe’e, aka the Monster’s Mouth Cave.

Now, let me be clear: this hike is not a casual stroll. If your idea of hiking is a well-paved path and filtered water, you might want to stick with the bus tour.

We loaded into the back of a truck with bench seats — island-style transport at its finest — and rattled down to the trailhead. From there, it was a 2.5- to 3-hour hike along the coastline, scrambling over sharp volcanic rocks, ducking into narrow cave passages, and sometimes holding onto ropes to climb and descend. It was wild, rugged, and absolutely breathtaking.

Teyauna and Zakary were like mountain goats, bounding over rocks, racing ahead and circling back. Kirsten and I? A bit more cautious — especially after realizing water shoes were not ideal for the first part of the hike (lesson learned: wear good trail shoes, then switch to water shoes at the end).

Reaching the cave felt like stepping into another world — a natural cathedral of stone, with pillars formed by millennia, lit only by the glow of our phone flashlights and the faint afternoon sun. It was worth every slippery rock.

The hike ended with a wade through ankle-deep coastal water to the final pickup point, where the trucks had looped around to meet us. Tired? Yes. Scratched up? A little. Smiling from ear to ear? Absolutely.

Dinner, Orientation, and Papaya Tart Dreams

Back on board, we showered off the dust and salt just in time for the evening orientation — a preview of our next stop: Rimatara. Then came dinner: roasted chicken, buttery potatoes, and a papaya tart with ice cream that probably ruined me for all other desserts.

We ended the day together on the outer deck — bundled in sweaters, watching the stars come out, sharing the kind of stories families only share after doing something hard and fun together.

Family Reflections: The Island That Gave Us Everything

Today had it all: culture, food, nature, sweat, laughs, a bit of taro stuck in our teeth, and a cave that felt straight out of a movie. But more than anything, it gave us connection — to a place, to its people, and to each other.

If you’re wondering whether your family could do this trip — the answer is yes. Just pack good shoes, a sense of humor, and an appetite for the unexpected.