Gravity-Defying Houses & Sourdough Miracles
Location: Raiatea, Society Islands
️ Voyage: Aranui 5 – Austral & Society Islands Adventure
Day 11: November 11 – Raiatea (On Our Own Schedule)
Pre-Breakfast Productivity & Plotting the Day
I was up early again (because: Dad Brain), tinkering with podcast edits at 5:30 a.m. while the rest of the ship blissfully slept. Honestly, I think I’ve done more media production on this cruise than I did all year — and I haven’t even touched my inbox.
At 8 a.m., just as breakfast was winding down, I joined Kirsten and the kids for a quick bite.Trying desperately to eat healthy, but the crepes? Oh yeah. I might have eaten Zak’s when he wasn’t looking. He’s 13. He’ll bounce back.
Going Rogue: The Rental Car Strategy
While most passengers were boarding comfy buses to the famous Marae Taputapuātea and botanical gardens, we decided to embrace our inner rebels. I had prearranged a rental car, and a local picked me up from the pier to handle the paperwork. I felt like James Bond… if Bond wore reef-safe sunscreen and cargo shorts.
After retrieving the family, we hit the road — air conditioning on, Bluetooth struggling, and teenagers alternating between awe and asking for snacks.
Botanical Beauty & That One Tree Zak Tried to Climb
First stop: Raiatea’s Botanical Garden. Gorgeous flowers, rare native plants, and towering trees — including one that Zak was tempted to climb until we reminded him this wasn’t a jungle gym. We strolled by the Faaroa River, the only navigable river in French Polynesia, and debated whether renting a kayak was worth the effort. (Spoiler: it wasn’t. It was hot.)
Sacred Stones & Weird Angles – The Mystery House
Next, we headed to Marae Taputapuātea, the spiritual epicenter of Polynesia. We listened to the guide for a bit, soaking in the history… until the kids began quietly whispering, “This rock looks like all the other rocks.”
So we pivoted. I’d found a spot online that sounded just weird enough to entertain teens: “Mystery House.” Built by a local grandfather-slash-mad-scientist-slash-optical-illusionist, it was part Physics 101, part funhouse, part Dumbledore’s shed.
Inside? Balls rolled uphill, people changed height depending on where they stood, and gravity took a vacation. Zak nearly lost his mind. Teyauna was just as intrigued. I felt victorious. Dads: 1, Boredom: 0.
The owner wrapped it up with actual magic tricks. He even taught the kids. I’m now slightly concerned Zak is going to start billing himself as a Polynesian street magician when we get home.
Surprise Sourdough & The Chocolate Bread Moment
Driving back toward Uturoa, I spotted a sign scrawled with “Boulangerie”. Naturally, I slammed on the brakes like it was a Pokémon raid. We turned into what was essentially someone’s garage — only it smelled like heaven and looked like a carb museum.
This wasn’t your average baguette joint. He was baking sourdough, nut loaves, and something glorious called “real chocolate bread.” Not a croissant — actual bread with chocolate in it. I don’t know if I was more impressed by the flavor or the sheer commitment to baking in that heat.
Old Friends, New Memories
Now fully fueled by carbs, we swung by the home of a family we had met 13 years ago during our first trip. We showed up island-style (aka: totally unannounced) and they welcomed us like long-lost cousins. They even pointed us to their daughter-in-law’s work so we could say hi — she had been in some of our old family photos. Her reaction? Pure joy. And maybe a tiny bit of confusion.
Raiatea reminds you: the world isn’t as big as it seems.
️ Starry Skies & Slow Evenings
Back on board, we had a chill afternoon — some journaling, video editing, and quiet time. Dinner was part of the special “Starry Night Under the Skies” experience on deck. The air was warm, the music was just right, and the buffet? Let’s just say I had a second helping and pre-dessert.
Final Thoughts
Raiatea gave us a full plate today — sacred sites, magical illusions, bread miracles, and deep human connection. And the best part? No schedule. Just the four of us making it up as we go.
So yes, you can do this kind of trip with teenagers. Just throw in a mystery house, a rental car, and maybe a surprise sourdough stop.
Tomorrow, we’re off to Bora Bora. The name sounds glamorous, but Raiatea just proved it doesn’t need hype — it has heart.