Three Villages, One Rare Parrot, and the Sacred Navel of Rimatara

Location: Rimatara, Austral Islands
️ Voyage: Aranui 5 – Austral & Society Islands Expedition
** Day 4: November 4 – Exploring Rimatara

Small Island, Big Welcome

If yesterday was about caves and cliff scrambles, today brought us into a softer, more sacred side of Polynesia. We were up again at 6:30 a.m. for breakfast, and by 7:45, we were ready to disembark for Rimatara — a peaceful island home to just 900 people and three villages.

But what made today stand out even more was this: for the first time ever, the island had arranged for an English-speaking local guide to accompany our group.

She was fantastic — warm, knowledgeable, and excited to share her home with us. It instantly made the experience more meaningful, especially for families like ours with kids (and parents) full of questions.

Also, we were in a comfortable bus for this island tour — which was a nice change from the rugged, open-air trucks. Great for resting, chatting, and snapping photos through the windows without getting dust in your teeth.

Royal Tombs, 24th-Century Marae, and Island Life

Our day started in Amaru, where we visited the Tama’eva royal tombs — final resting place of Rimatara’s kings and queens. The kids especially loved the old local legend: “If you make funny faces near the tomb, you’ll stay that way forever.” Zakary immediately looked guilty.

Next, we stopped at the Irirua Marae, an ancient site dating back to the 24th century, founded by the Rua family. It was quiet, mossy, and deeply spiritual — the kind of place that makes even teenagers pause and listen.

We also passed fields of taro and other crops, and even got a drive-by tour of where our guide lives — something that made the whole experience feel that much more personal.

Beach Time & Barbecue Bliss

Around late morning, we reached a beautiful beach where locals had set up tables of handicrafts, and we had two full hours to relax, swim, and enjoy the view.

Music played in the background, and the air was filled with the scent of grilled meat and sea breeze. We lounged under palm trees and tents, Kirsten and I waded out into the shallow water, and for a while it felt like we had the island all to ourselves.

At noon, the Aranui crew came ashore and served up a full-blown barbecue, with Polynesian dishes, grilled fish, and enough fresh fruit to make you forget about dessert. (Spoiler: there was dessert.)

Hiking to the Navel of the Island

After lunch, we joined a small group for the short shuttle to the trailhead that would lead us to “Pito Oromana”, the navel of the island — a sacred royal site where the placentas of royal children were traditionally buried. (Polynesia is full of fascinating traditions like this.)

The hike took us up a 4×4 trail, winding past tropical trees (including a massive pistachio tree that, sadly, wasn’t in season). Along the way, our guide shared stories about local legends and how sacred this site is to the people of Rimatara.

At the top, we were surprised with a treat: our local host arrived by 4×4 with chocolate-filled crepes, bottles of water, and the kind of smile that said, “Yes, I do this hike all the time, and I love it.”

The Ura — A Rainbow in the Trees

On our descent down the opposite side of the island — yes, we literally crossed Rimatara end-to-end (it’s only 4 kilometers wide!) — we had one last magical moment.

A sudden flash of green, red, blue, and yellow shot through the trees — and there it was: the Ura, also known as the Rimatara red parakeet (Kuhl’s lorikeet).

This incredibly rare bird is endemic to Rimatara, and it’s known locally as “the color thief” because of its impossibly vibrant feathers. We stood still, watching it flutter from branch to branch like it had come just for us.

Teyauna had wandered ahead so we called her back.
Zakary just grinned and tried (and failed) to get the perfect photo.

Family Reflections: Rimatara Is the Heart of This Trip

Rimatara may be tiny, but today it gave us everything: culture, connection, nature, and warmth — both literal and emotional.

It’s the kind of island where you feel like you’ve stepped into someone’s living room, not a tourist site. Where your kids don’t just see something new — they feel it.

It’s also proof that travel like this isn’t just for seasoned explorers — it’s for families looking to grow, learn, and adventure together.