We Went Looking for Whales… and Found Something Better
Location: En route to Rurutu
️ Voyage: Aranui 5 – Austral & Society Islands Expedition
** Day 2: November 2 – At Sea + Afternoon in Rurutu
☕ Slow Mornings and Big Ocean Energy
If there’s one unexpected perk to cruising with kids (and one sleepy adult or two), it’s having a morning at sea. After a packed first day, we welcomed the slower start. Breakfast runs until 8:30, so even with a few snoozed alarms, our whole crew — me, Kirsten, Teyauna, and Zakary — made it to the dining room in time for fresh croissants, tropical fruit, and a few too many crepes (it definitely is one of my personal weaknesses, anyway).
The sea outside was a brilliant blue sheet, barely rippling — the kind of calm that makes you think the whole Pacific is holding its breath.
Tangents, Time Travel, and Polynesian Origins
At 10 a.m., we all headed into the lounge for what might sound like a nap-inducing activity on paper: a lecture.
But here’s the thing — it was led by Mark Eddowes, an archaeologist with a wild sense of humor and a love for all things Polynesian. The topic was “The Ancient Culture of Rurutu,” but the lecture zig-zagged through everything from migration routes to ancient rituals to how oral traditions line up (or don’t) with carbon dating.
Teyauna, who’s usually suspicious of anything that sounds like “school on vacation,” actually leaned in. Zakary didn’t catch every detail, but he caught enough to start peppering me with questions later — “So wait, Polynesians might’ve sailed thousands of miles without maps?”
Exactly.
Family Tip: This trip sneaks in education so smoothly your kids won’t even know they’re learning.
️ Whale-Watching… Kind Of
After lunch, it was time for our optional excursion — we signed up for a whale-watching tour in Rurutu. The island is famous for swimming with humpback whales from late May through early November. But here’s the catch: it’s November 2nd. And this year? The whales seem to be ahead of schedule — or we’re just a few days too late.
Still, we loaded into the boat, zipped up our wetsuits, and cruised along Rurutu’s dramatic volcanic coastline. No whales, unfortunately. Not even a distant splash.
But the scenery was unreal — black cliffs, turquoise water, and tiny coastal villages that looked like they’d been carved right into the land. Eventually, we all jumped in the water for a quick swim. The kids were in heaven, bobbing in open ocean, goofing around like dolphins. Even without whales, it felt like a win.
The ride back got a bit splashy — some bigger waves gave us a salty wake-up call — but everyone was laughing and holding tight. We made it back to shore around 5 p.m., just in time to catch the last barge to the ship.
Dinner, Dancing, and Local Magic
We barely had time to dry off and change before heading to dinner, but the rush was worth it. Dinner under the stars on the top deck — with warm island breezes, string lights glowing, and the sea calm as a whisper — was something out of a movie.
But the real highlight came just before 9 p.m., when a group of local Rurutu residents came aboard for a special dance performance.
They brought drums, guitars, and mana — that soul-deep energy you can feel through your chest. They danced and sang and pulled us into their world for a little while. Teyauna our dancer sat mezmorized, taking it all in. Zakary joined us for a family photo with the dancers and grinning like he belonged there.
It was the kind of moment where you forget what you expected this trip to be — and just let it wash over you.
Family Reflections: Is It Worth It Without Whales?
Absolutely.
Today wasn’t about crossing off a checklist. It was about connecting with a place, even if the whales had already moved on. We laughed, we learned, we jumped into the ocean, and we ended the day with music, food, and stars.
We didn’t find whales, but we definitely found the heart of Rurutu.
Tomorrow we explore it deeper.
